- jbkiwi🇳🇿Almirante da FrotaClever piece of kit, great job.Like 1Gostado por Biscuit
- Joe727🇺🇸ComandanteExtremely impressive, a water-cooled four stroke with reverse. You must have some great metal working abilities and nice equipment. Video was fun to watch! JoeLike
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46 posts · Página 2 of 4This model uses a Vintage Ripmax Bullet 30 DC motor that can run on 24v here it is only on 14.4v it becomes lively on 16.8v.
A favourite model boat there must have been hundreds if not thousands made.
When I brought mine there was a choice between two sizes 36in (90cm) or 48in (120cm) and then you could choose between a wooden hull or a fibreglass hull. I went for the smaller boat with the fibreglass hull. this was back in the 1980s.
Background of the boat
The boats Perkasa class consisted of three motor torpedo boats built by Vosper (UK) for the Malaysian Navy as follows:-
Perkasa 150
Penula 151
Handalan 152
This model has 3 motors, port & starboard are Graupner 600s and one 700 type in the centre runs 3 ESCs front and rear guns operate via servos, with flashing LEDs down the barrels.
'Vosper 70ft Motor Torpedo Boat V-252 at Greenock in January 1942. in the background is the Flower class Corvette HMCS Trillium(K172)'
(Which makes me wonder if OUR Trillium served on her!?)
+ 2 others! Research continues, I have an interest in both types 😉
Cheers Doug 😎
Fairmile D MTB623 belongs to a good friend. This boat was also featured in a previous video with my Fairmile D.
The lake was a bit choppy with realistic sea conditions.
The Vosper hull is built from balsawood and fibreglass. The upper deck and superstructure is from balsawood. The weapons and fittings are from brass, aluminium and plastic. The 20mm and gunner can rotate.
- RNinMunichAlmirante da FrotaMany thanks for the Turnigy tip👍 much cheaper than the 20 quid Action /Component Shop version 😉
I hated wasting channels, and multi-channel sets were horrendously expensive😡 so many many 🤔 moons ago I made my own 4 function switch decoder for my destroyer, home made PCB, a few 5V CMOS chips, driver transistors and 5V 5Amp relay outputs. Pics 1, 2 & 3. Gave 4 functions Nav lights, Signal Lamps flashing, Whoop Whoop siren, and smoke unit from one proportional channel. Still seems to work 30 years later!😊
Around the same time I added a winch for the crane on the stern deck and also made a home cooked PCB with a simple forwards / backwards motor driver; again CMOS chips, driver TRs and relays. Pics 4 & 5.
Pulled in well but there was no free-run mode on the winch so it needed something like a tin o' beans on the hook to run it out 🤔 .
Lovely smelly etching for the PCBs 😆 Ferrous oxide!? Or was it ferric chloride? Never did like chemistry, I was a physics man. But it worked😊
Most of the bits were sort of 'lying around' at work😉
BTW: if anyone needs CMOS or 7400 series TTL chips I still have pretty good stock!
Nowadays it's all plug n play and such things are miniaturising so fast one day they'll disappear up there own whatsits!
Back then half the fun was doing it yourself and squeezing the utmost out of a 2 or 4 channel radio. Happy days? 🤔
Cheers Doug (AKA Rambling Man😁)Gostado por cormorant - cormorantTenente-comandanteSuperb! I wouldn't know where to start.
One of my first boats was an Aerokits Crash Tender powered by a Frog 2.49cc diesel. The radio was single channel, one press of the button for right rudder, 2 presses left rudder, press and hold for throttle.Gostado por RNinMunich
- LyleSegundo-sargento marítimoMate , lovely to hear , I felt a bit poorly somewhat going at you as over the top, which was unwarranted. I ran my vessel the last two weekends with my mates at the Lake Illawarra channel ( see google maps?) South of Wollongong New South Wales Australia. Well we are just a bunch of old boaties , sick of clubs and fights and restrictions/ rules/ flat earthers. We have a lot of public look at us and the Council Ranger and staff lookeee see at times , but AS we are in zone of the Lake Channel HiGH/ LOW tidal mark any authorities do not want to know us. Here in OZ you can still boat as we have a lack of ponds in the land (not like your WW2 type ponds built in villages for water for vehicle fire tenders from FIRE and bombing raids). We have extensions on household insurance in OZ to cover liability and we tell any noisy race/race boat types to ".... off". We sail 1 meters etc thames barge, steam and electric and i/c and all big stuff we ALL run together on the water on the "pond", old sets 27 40 and 2.4 gig. And I spelt Peter Dimberline incorrectly with a T , so he will find out and knuckle me!! I do clean the engine bay with motor car degreaser spray and the decks cabin etc with household Kitchen cleaner and paper wipes. Such is good old Dulux house paint over the years. Fold down f'wrd mast , crane sits in a brass tube at the port engine bay ,rear mast sits on a peg at stern, rear stbd hatch opens, ALL to avoid knocks breakages of bits and over the years I have actually cast alloy bits in plaster-moulds and screwed down with brass. Just a standard red plastic graupner 40 mm prop (4mm thread?) this motor is a SC china copy ? of a OS40 I think , I just run her at the first plane to look nice, no rev head stuff as not necessary, wide turns, but goes so well in 2 inch to 4 inch chop no pounding/ bone shaking during winter runs as it HAS to perform SCALE on the pond rather than toy boat behaviour such as dig in and flick turns and she is heavy to handle waves! Just standard home made fuel 4 to 1 and my mates talked me out of Castor, so now I use synthetic lube . We share all things. Too much talkie . All the best and just fly out to join us good weather too .
The boat isnt quite flat out here due to the difficulty videoing and steering.
Les
- Dave MVice-AlmiranteHI Les
What a bummer. Bread is not good for wildlife and certainly not for props.
Hopefully your motor should be OK as long as the wires are not burnt. if you have a multimeter you could check the insulation between the shaft and each winding using the highest ohms reading. it should be high, if low chances are there is an internal short. A quick check (on a lower ohm reading) between windings should give similar results between every pair, again any variance may indicate an internal short.
Dave