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1. Colin H🇬🇧Silver

   Almirante da Frota·há 3 anos

   Using the 12v sla means no ballast needed along with the weight of the Taycol Supermarine motor.
   With a LiFePO4 of the same physical size which weighs half the sla but greater amp hours she does get on the plane quite nicely but looks high in the water at rest.
   Cheers Colin.

   Gostado por Doogle and RNinMunich and 1 other
2. BOATSHED🇬🇧

   Capitão·há 3 anos

   Hi Again RNinMunich, just read your comment on fitting ball races into the Supermarine. This is the one that I have and I plan to add into one of my two Vintage Aerokit's. Still unsure which one as to yet. It runs fine but probably no where near as smooth as your one does. Although I love speed I think my idea of the Taycol into one of these two is just for the authenticity, but the R/c will have to be maybe Futaba 27mg am as that is the oldest I have, that is from the late 70's.
   But I will be using LiPo battery when I do it just to minimise the weight. The 12v lead acid batteries are a bit heavy. I will give both a try though just to see what both react like, as well as a play about with different size props, as I do this on all boat's. But my only problem is as to where I can go to ponds to use boats on. There is not much to use in the Dartford area.🤔🤔 And Mr Khan has added another £12.50 to each visit to other ponds, except on Christmas day and that's already booked indefinitely and has been for the last 29 years, even before he wanted to dip into our pockets. But due to public anger he has at least dropped the charge on 25th December.

   Gostado por Colin H
3. Colin H🇬🇧Silver

   Almirante da Frota·há 3 anos

   Boatshed your not alone, I okay with 90% of modelling but 0% of electrics.
   Cheers Colin.

   Gostado por BOATSHED and AlessandroSPQR Ver tudo
4. BOATSHED🇬🇧

   Capitão·há 3 anos

   Hi, RNinMunich, Thank you for your explanation of your little black box. I have read it 4 times up to now and as I said in another one of my comments, electronics I know nothing about. And even after reading it that amount of times, yes I am still LOST. Sadly if an item electronically isn't Plug'n'play then I am totally confused with it.
   
   I have just come back to carry on writing this after reading your post again. I still don't get it I'm afraid. I pause and I'm now thinking am I just stupid or thick? and should I even post this, not wishing to offend you. I have just read it again,
   All clear?
   Sadly No!!. Boatshed 🤔🤕Sorry.
5. Colin H🇬🇧Silver

   Almirante da Frota·há 3 anos

   Here is a couple of videos of my 3 year old granddaughter operating the Sea Commander and my 8year old grandson operating his tug Witte Zee. Filmed at Cwmbran model boat club open day last year.
   Cheers Colin.

   Gostado por Peejay and BOATSHED and 4 others
6. Colin H🇬🇧Silver

   Almirante da Frota·há 3 anos

   And still purs perfectly Doug it's the best running vintage motor I own.👍👍👍👍🤗.
   Cheers Colin.

   Gostado por BOATSHED and RNinMunich and 1 other
7. RNinMunich🇩🇪Bronze

   Almirante da Frota·há 3 anos

   PS to Taycol Supermarine resurrection for Colin's Sea Commander.
   Part of the reason for the increased efficiency and performance is that I cured the 'slop' in the paxolin end plates by fitting his motor with mini ball race bearings. Hidden inside the plastic end caps, which also contain the felt oil pads, to retain some of the 'Vintage look'.
   On the first trials after cleaning and before mods she 'rattled and rolled'.
   With the ball races fitted she purred like a pussy cat🐱😉
   😎

   Gostado por BOATSHED and Rookysailor and 2 others
8. RNinMunich🇩🇪Bronze

   Almirante da Frota·há 3 anos

   Hi Boatshed,
   The 'card' that you see sticking out of my 'Black Box' is actually a chunk of alu plate forming a heatsink for a bridge rectifier.
   As you may know; the old Taycol motors are are 'Field wound'. This means that instead of a permanent magnet, like 'canned' motors', the static magnetic field (Stator) is generated by applying current to a field coil. As this fixed field coil is in series with the armature coils (rotating part of the motor) reversing the polarity of the voltage at the motor terminals has NO EFFECT because it simply reverses the polarity of both fixed and rotating magnetic fields. So the first step is to separate the stator coil winding from the armature.
   
   All I do is rectify the pulsed (square wave) signal from the ESC with a bridge rectifier (4 hi-current diodes in a bridge form in one package), apply the + and - outputs from the rectifier to the field coil so that it produces a constant magnetic field just like the permanent magnet of a canned motor.
   The two alternating (pulsed) outputs of the ESC are applied to the AC (~) inputs of the rectifier, which go + / - or - / + according to the command from the TX, I apply to the brush terminals just like a normal brushed motor setup. The output of the ESC is a train of either positive of negative going DC pulses. Pic 2 the positive train on the scope. Pic 3 the negative train.
   The larger and wider the pulse the higher and longer the voltage is applied and the faster the motor spins. So called Pulse Width Modulation (PWM). The gaps between the pulses are smoothed out by the inertia (flywheel effect) of the motor, and anything hanging on it - like a prop and a few million gallons of wet stuff 😁
   Hey presto, a field coil motor that runs forwards or backwards on command 😊 Main thing is simply to separate the field coil from the armature coil (i.e. brush gear) so you can control each one independently.
   No rocket science but highly satisfying when it all comes together and works on the pond. Which Colin has recently proven, much to my joy😀
   
   This was the second Taycol that I converted in this way. The first being my Taycol Target.
   See my Sea Scout 'Jessica' build blog for details.
   Third link below.
   My first trial was unsuccessful, no reverse, until I realised I had made a wiring error.🤔
   Having corrected that I proved that it doesn't matter which pair of rectifier outputs (+/- or /) you connect to which coil, it will work.
   The two fuses are there to protect motor, ESC and most important the wiring (fire risk) in case of a stalled prop (weeds etc😠)
   
   All clear?
   Cheers, Doug😎
   PS As Always🙄 when clicking a link within the site it may take several seconds until the correct post within the thread is displayed. Foible of the site.
   Refresh the page (F5 on a Windows PC) to accelerate the jump to the correct post.😎
   
   https://model-boats.com/forum/46155#46155
   
   https://model-boats.com/forum/46155#46343
   
   https://model-boats.com/blogs/28209#28881

   Gostado por Peejay and BOATSHED and 4 others
9. AlessandroSPQR🇮🇹

   Almirante da Frota·há 3 anos

   Hi Colin.
   
   That's Smart Doug.
   
   I think like you about batteries, I also prefer AGM lead batteries.
   
   I have used the Saft brand as lithium batteries, very high-performance and reliable, but I have never used them for models and I don't think I will ever use them.

   Gostado por BOATSHED and Colin H Ver tudo
10. Colin H🇬🇧Silver

    Almirante da Frota·há 3 anos

    Good afternoon Boatshed, not interested in speed myself,
    I like to keep my vintage boats controllable so that small children can enjoy using them without fear of damage.
    And yes I posted the Taycol Supermarine to Doug, and he posted it back when it was finished.
    I oil the brushes with light sewing machine oil before each use.
    So far it has done about 120hours since the refurb and runs sweetly for 2 to 3 hours each trip.
    I'm going to change the battery for a LiFePO4 next year to save weight as my old sla 7ah one is 7 years old and is getting tired.
    Don't like lipo's after losing my Lancaster to a battery failure causing a mid flight fire. So I stick to old school batteries and chargers.
    Cheers Colin.

    Gostado por BOATSHED and RNinMunich and 2 others